Brauerei zur Malzmühle – From malt beer to a modern Kölsch brand

1858: No Kölsch yet – but the start of a legend

When Hubert Koch founded his brewery at Heumarkt in 1858, he probably didn’t know that it would one day become one of Cologne’s most famous beer houses.

Back then, “Kölsch” as we know it today wasn’t brewed here yet. The typical light Kölsch style only developed decades later, at the beginning of the 20th century. Top-fermented beer was brewed – including malt beer, which was very popular in the 19th century.

By the way, the name “Malzmühle” goes back to a historic mill at Heumarkt that was already grinding grain in the 16th century. So the location was associated with malt long before the brewery existed.

From family business to institution

In 1912, the Schwartz family took over the brewery – and ran it for generations.

World War II destroyed large parts of the building. But like so many things in Cologne, the Malzmühle was rebuilt.

In the post-war period, Mühlen Kölsch became a local staple. The Malzmühle wasn’t an industrial corporation, but a real Cologne family business – and that’s exactly what defined its character.

Brewing continued at Heumarkt, in the heart of Cologne’s Old Town, until 2022.

2022: Malzmühle takes over Sünner

Then came some surprising news:

Brauerei zur Malzmühle took over the Sünner brewery.

And that is historically remarkable.

Sünner, founded in 1830, is considered the oldest brewery still producing in Cologne.
Malzmühle, founded in 1858, is the second oldest.

This meant the second-oldest brewery took over the oldest – a symbolic moment for Cologne’s brewing world. And that’s exactly what Brauerei zur Malzmühle renamed the newly acquired Sünner brewery: Brauwelt Köln

There, Mühlen Kölsch and Sünner Kölsch, among others, were then brewed side by side. With Sünner, they didn’t just take over Cologne’s oldest brewery, but also the city’s only distillery capable of handling every production step from mash to bottling in-house.

For guests in the beer house, nothing changed: the Kölsch tasted the same as always. But economically, it was a significant step to secure two traditional brands for the long term.

Distribution via Gaffel – a new chapter for Mühlen Kölsch

In June 2025, the next bombshell followed: Brauerei zur Malzmühle announced that its traditional brand Mühlen Kölsch will be brewed and distributed by the Gaffel private brewery in the future. The trademark rights were also transferred to Gaffel.

Brauwelt Köln continues to produce Sünner Kölsch and Koch’sches Malzbier, among others – but Mühlen Kölsch is now made at Gaffel in Gremberghoven.

For the guest at the table, it remains very simple:
When the glass is empty, the Köbes brings the next one.

Prominent guests: When world politics meets Kölsch

The Malzmühle was always more than just a beer house. It was – and is – a stage.

Bill Clinton

When former US President Bill Clinton visited Cologne, a story circulated in the city that he originally wanted to stop by the legendary “Lommi.” But after Hans Lommerzheim was allegedly unwilling to clear out his pub for the President, the path finally led to the Brauerei zur Malzmühle.

Whether it’s a legend or not – the image is delightful: an American President, surrounded by security personnel, sitting at a table with a slender Kölsch glass. And someone probably had to explain to him that in Cologne, you don’t actively order more – as long as the coaster isn’t on top of the glass, a refill comes automatically.

Pink

The singer Pink has also been a guest at the Malzmühle.

World star meets beer house. No VIP area, no red carpet – just wooden chairs, a Köbes, and Kölsch every few seconds. The Köbes allegedly only recognized her after other guests pointed out who he was actually serving.

That’s exactly the appeal:
In Cologne’s beer houses, hierarchies blur. Politicians, pop stars, tourists, and regulars often sit just a few tables away from each other.

The beer house today

Anyone entering the Malzmühle today experiences:

• dark wood
• lively conversations
• clinking Kölsch glasses
• classic Rhenish cuisine

Its location at Heumarkt makes it one of the most central beer houses in the Old Town.

And although ownership structures, distribution, and market conditions have changed, the experience remains surprisingly constant.

Why the Malzmühle shouldn’t be missed on any beer house tour

The history of the Malzmühle is more than just a brewery’s history.

It tells the story of:

• the development of Kölsch
• the post-war reconstruction
• family businesses
• structural change
• prominent guests
• and the special culture of Cologne’s beer houses

It’s exactly these kinds of stories that make a real beer house tour.

Because what many look for as a “brewery tour” is actually a journey through Cologne’s city history – with a freshly tapped Kölsch in hand.